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walking

The first, the original way to go on safari, with a history dating back to the earliest days of mankind. Ok so that’s a bit melodramatic however you get the picture. It is what we do though, we walk, and be it a walking safari or hiking, there is nothing more grounding and no more intimate way to enjoy the wilderness.

Having been among the first guides to qualify for Botswana’s inaugural walking guides license almost thirty years ago, I have led walking safaris in both the Okavango Delta and the Selous game reserve. If game drives set the scene and introduce the characters then being on foot turns us from viewers to participants. We have every right to walk in the wilderness and connecting to the land reminds us who we truly are.

Tracking lion or wild dog in the South Luangwa valley, afternoons with the elephant bulls of Gonarezhou, exploring the far reaches of the Ruaha or walking silently across the Laikipia plateau in search of rhino, days on foot are days of discovery.

In a continent this big there are of course fantastic hiking opportunities as well as the option to interact at a slower pace and a more natural rhythm. Time spent walking with the Hadza or San people and hiking in the Drakensberg or Bale mountains are moments that show us the soul of a place and often reveal stories that last forever.

I cannot stress enough the importance of experience in these environments. Whether it is an afternoon stroll out of camp, a morning’s tracking, a multi-day expedition or sitting at a waterhole, the safety of any walking safari in big game country hinges on the experience of the guide leading it.

Moving through a landscape on foot is not only the most traditional way, it is the most immersive. Seeing wildlife and not being seen may be the pinnacle of a non-intrusive wildlife safari. These are journeys that remind us to trust our instincts and to engage with our surroundings in the most honest way possible; slowly, quietly and respectfully.

image credits

My sincere thanks and grateful appreciation to the talented photographers and artists whose work is included within this site. It would not be possible to tell the story that I hope to convey without their skill and I trust that I have recognised everyone. If I have not, then please accept my apologies.

I hope that you enjoy these images and the stories they tell.

The Original Ker & Downey, Andreas Fox, Finlay Marrian, Max Melesi, Oliver Nicklin, Paolo Parazzi, Sam Stogdale, Sean Dundas, Shaun Mousley; Michael Lorentz, Olly Williams, Julius Strauss, David Simpson, Chege Njuguna, Nicole Honegger, Natural Selection Travel, Segera Retreat, SVS Tchad.

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walking

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horses for courses

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wonders of nature

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lemurs & evolution

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dandylion

Travel in Africa, like the continent itself, is multi layered. While it is often the iconic wildlife that first draws us, it is the human connection that makes the story real. There is another side to going on safari, one of cultures both ancient and modern. It is an important side as the fragility of Africa’s wild spaces rests significantly in the decision making of the continent’s urban centres and each individual nation’s own people. As is only to be expected, there is a creativity, dynamism and beauty of the human spirit that helps paint the true picture.

These human stories are told in many ways, including art, music, dance, architecture and clothing. From therianthrope rock art in the Matobo Hills to the contemporary art of Khartoum, Saharan rock engravings, Benin bronzes, Ghanaian trading beads and Zimbabwe stone scultpures, the continent’s art history dates back thousands of years.

Likewise, music and dance is an integral part of traditional culture and spans the gamut. The trance dance of the San in the Kalahari, the Wodaabe’s yaake dance, Samburu singing wells, Sufi mystics in the land of Sheba, the adumu dance of the Maasai, the Zulu indlamu and Senegalese mbalax musicians all tell stories that bond their communities.

Meanwhile Ethiopia’s Orthodox architectural tradition includes Axumite rock stelae, the monolithic churches of Lalibela and is believed to be the resting place of the Ark of the Covenant. Stories abound in what was one of the world’s last empires and are best heard over buna in the birthplace of coffee.

Of course Africa is a continent on the move and while these art forms are fundamental to their communities there are equally inspiring places to visit in modern, urban Africa. The Dakar biennale, Ghanaian kente cloth and East African kitenge markets, the Timkat epiphany festival, Cape Town café culture and grooving with the Brazzaville sapeurs; these are adventures of the heart that ring true.

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aliceblue

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deserts & mountains

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migrations

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tigers & bears

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great apes

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elephants, rhinos & whales

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cats & dogs